UPDATE: Follow in "The adventure en route (II)" and "The adventure en route (III)"
Some small notes and photographs of our stories en route (on the way back we detail them completely). OUR TRAVEL BITACORA ...
DAY 1: A Coruña - Barcelona - Tehran
Long day, long stops ... Although we arrived at 2.35 in the morning, we spent almost 1 hour and a half to pass passport controls, horrible! At 5'00 in the morning we fell into a modest room of a hostel lost by Tehran
DAY 2: Tehran - Qom
Despite not getting too much sleep and getting up at 9, we have decided to acclimatize for Tehran and catch up quickly. The sensations are great, and even at the time I write this we will be encouraged to approach Qom and find something to sleep around ...
UPDATE: We still have the creeps. Enter one of the most sacred mausoleums of Shiism at night as one more Iranian and go unnoticed. Being able to see their courtyards, their golden dome, their grave ... ufs! We have no words ...
DAY 3: Qom - Kashan
The night yesterday in Qom was already recorded in our lives, so much that today we have returned to visit the sacred site. Around 11 o'clock we have left for Kashan where, after a couple of attempts, we have managed to sleep. The city has enchanted us, full of historic mansions, with a beautiful bazaar and another one of those moments that stops time when we face a lonely Karanvasarai with incredible vaulted ceilings where we have been invited to have tea for a kind Iranian who I wanted to know about Spain. These people are a charm ... Soon we will try to get some sleep.
You can miss Sele's first little postcard from here at //www.elrincondesele.com/una-postal-desde-qom-iran
DAY 4: Kashan - Abyaneh - Natanz - Ispahan
There are small towns in the world that can turn you literally to another dimension. That is the case of Abyaneh, a town of intense adobe color that has left us one of the most pleasant mornings of a trip and from which you will have a new postcard of Sele in early tomorrow //www.elrincondesele.com/una-postal-de-abyaneh-corazon-de-adobe-en-el-iran-mas-rural . Our route has continued along a controversial road that we will talk about when we return to the city of Natanz, where we have entered an improvised stay where they celebrate the muharran, to reach the sunset of Isfahan that we will use as a base the next few days ... Our first impression? !! Better see the photos !! A city taken from a story where we have learned many things from the Persian people through a good conversation ...
DAY 5: Isfahan seen from its heights
When two restless people get together it is clear that things happen that would not happen otherwise. That "do you dare?" It has not stopped coming out of our mouths since we left Barcelona Airport a few days ago, and it is possible that we have lived through those "moments when time stands still" that I like to tell so much ... like that spiritual night in Qom, in the Karavanesi of Kashan or in the picturesque village of Abyaneh from the hill. Today we have visited many things, from the Friday Mosque, to the outskirts of Naghsh-i Jahan Square but the time of day has come when, newly opened and almost without people, we have managed to "convince" (let's say so) a member of security to! climb one of its minarets! Can you imagine riding small corridors and almost claustrophobic stairs to get to the top of this place? You will have it from tomorrow at 8'45 in the elrincondesele.com ... Hours before we had managed to find a ladder that led us to the roofs of Isfahan. And, how could it be otherwise, we ended up watching a beautiful sunset on the famous arch bridges.
DAY 6: Isfahan
Today we enjoyed a very nice day in the city of Isfahan. The sun continues to hit hard, and as we move south it shows more every day. Palaces, Madrasas and the isolated Armenian neighborhood have marked the morning, while in the afternoon go up to the Temple of Fire and get lost in the bazaars and tea shops, it has led us to discover a great traveler, Agustin, a connoisseur of more than 150 countries and which started a few months ago its particular Silk Road in Venice.
On the march we have decided to take a night bus to Shiraz, instead of sleeping here ... but that is already part of another story
DAY 7: Shiraz
Despite what we could believe, the night journey between Isfahan and Shiraz by bus has been very bearable, and almost without knowing we entered the city that reached its splendor with the Timurid Empire, and that will welcome us the next 2 or 3 nights. Surely there are 3, since today is our first Friday here and in Persia that means !! all closed !! which we have used to make the first contact. The citadel of Karim Khan, the Madrassa, the Narejestan Palace and, above all, being able to access the Mausoleum of Shak-e-Cherag, have occupied our time ... and that is that despite all the recommendations, being respectful, the kind people Persian is with us, and allows us to reach the heart of its most revered places, the tomb of Sayeed Mir, an important pilgrimage site of Shiism, brother of Imam Reza. The courtyard, its mausoleums and its life in its most sacred day ...
About to get into bed (tomorrow you will have a new postcard in heelrincondesele.com... do not miss it!), We have not been able to avoid the temptation to return to the Mausoleum at night without backpacks or cameras, just mobile phones. Ufs! It is as if this place, like days ago in Qom, gave off a special mystical halo. There, sitting in his yard, just watching the comings and goings of his "crew." Away from a monument or some ruins, we are facing a sacred sanctuary full of life that occurs right now, in front of us, with the whole story ahead to tell ...
DAY 8: Shiraz
They say that Shiraz, in addition to being one of the most tourist cities in Iran (the truth is that we still do not see almost any tourist), is the population of poets. Here lie the emblematic Hafez (whose grave is gorgeous) and Saa'di (perhaps something more expendable). There we went first thing before I almost found by chance Imanzadeh Ali-ebne Hafez, one of those surprises that improvisation holds and where we have spent almost 1 hour sitting in his grave. In addition, people remain a charm, wishing us the best even in their most sacred places, which continues to surprise us even if a week has passed. Getting lost in your local bazaars (finding Vakil) and some good chicken wings (the rest of the food is very repetitive), it's still a good habit that we don't want to lose ...
We have also used the day to see options to follow the route. Perhaps tomorrow, taking advantage of the fact that we will finally reach Persepolis and nearby historical areas, let's try to negotiate someone to bring us closer to Yazd and thus change the night of Shiraz for an accommodation in Yazd. Also tomorrow inheelrincondesele.com, Sele leaves you another little postcard of those moments that freeze time.
We keep updating on "The en route adventure (II)" and "The en route adventure (III)"
Isaac and Sele, from Iran