Is about one of the oldest settlements of mankind, which together with yakutos (Lena River), Tungus (Yenisei River), Chukchi (Northeast Siberia), Saami and Samoyed (Baltic Shield) represent cultures beyond the Arctic Circle of the Eurasian, Greenlandic and American tundra, encompassing all the traits and genetics of what seems like a common origin… and without entering those that adapted to the taiga or boreal forests
Eqaloruutsit, the most active glacier
Contrary to what I might expect, I slept beautifully in our small glacier camp where we fell last night. So much so that when I wanted to open the store to see the light of day, Jose Carlos was already "getting tangled up" and Daniela and Guille preparing breakfast to make a small exploration of the place where we are ... and that is on the other side of the bay a surprise awaits us
It doesn't take more than 40 minutes to climb the hillside (We will disassemble the camp on our return - and here there is no danger that anyone will take it ... there is no one in miles around! -) and discover the "ice bucket" origin of the Icebergs Bay we navigate
This is none other than the huge two-tongue glacier called Eqaloruutsit, possibly the most active in Southern Greenland, whose fjord is barely visible among the sea of ice from which our "sculptural" icebergs come
The difference between our bay and the bottom of the fjord where the glacier opens is important. There would be no possibility to access here or with an icebreaker (exaggeration?), Leaving a beautiful contrast that is barely able to capture the camera (remember that the Nikon and the Drone stayed in Qassiarsuk for the Kayak, so I settle with a small compact, the mobile and the GoPro)
If there is something that I loved in the whole adventure, it is that the times, always respecting our partners, we mark them. A beer before leaving? Well, it is taken! It will be for beers
If yesterday we took a short time in riding the camp, taking it apart has been even faster. Perhaps the most delicate operation is to put everything back into the kayaks but Daniela is a true expert. We could not have had a better guide
Behind we leave that "lost place somewhere" where we spend the night and I admit that it brings me ideas of future beautiful adventures. Now that I have dared with the Kayak, why not an Alaska expedition in one?
Kayak in the Icebergs Bay, back
I don't fool anyone if I say I started something skeptical about my novel form of transport between icebergs. Especially because of my thoughts of yesterday ... What if these ice formations of spectacular colors turn around when they break into several pieces and form a minitsunami with tragic consequences?
Nothing is further from reality. The kayak is VERY STABLE. So stable that the concern that the icebergs were preventing the passage fades as the trick caught him and today is almost no problem
Today the current is stronger, so Jose Carlos and I take turns from time to time to take small breaks, although there is something I will not forget now and that "Come on! Come on! "characteristic of Danielabut especially that "Yuhuuuuuuuuuuuu!"Every time we hear a little iceberg get turned around and turn around. !Spectacular!
Crowds of seagulls fly over us with some distance, as if hoping that our movement can make some easy fishing appear, and even Daniela says she has seen a seal in the distance.
It is the moment, after having crossed half South of Greenland loaded with beers even in the own one Qaleraliq Fletanes Camp, Were we going to waste the opportunity to treat ourselves? This beer goes through Ida and Antonio! They will be back home.
The picnic today we do on a small island "that we decided to colonize" and take advantage to make a break to almost 4 hours of navigation.
Inuit, an aboriginal people in harmony with nature
I return to my thoughts and it surprises me (and I admit that I find it hard to understand) as the Inuit people have achieved such balance and respect towards the natural world and the spiritual world as to convert their vision of nature in that metaphysical way. If we think about it for a moment, it is not far from what our prehistoric ancestors felt integrated into it and hence many cave art caves with animal figures and other elements of it
The adaptation to this raw nature that we now see green and beautiful, but that when the hours of greatest darkness arrive become dark and icy, it does not only go through its main hunting and fishing activity of caribou, bears, whales or seals but also a semi-nomadic life after these, trying to make my mind as open as possible I cannot understand how they manage to mediate with spiritual forces to encourage its successes.
Today in this part of Greenland, the Inuit culture is far from that in which shamans (or here called "angakut") were those who were responsible for achieving that harmony with the natural world, what we could consider an aboriginal system spiritual. However, it is this part of mythology mixed with their lifelong customs that continues to attract our attention and can still be seen in small populations of Thule
Cosmogony of the Inuit people
It has been done already at night in Qassiarsuk where, after disembarking in Tasiusaq we have returned by car (Thank you very much Ina for being on time to bring us, Miriam for receiving us (20 EUR gift for Paula) and Rafa for another spectacular dinner -4.5 EUR beer-). Jose Carlos already sleeps in the bunk below, regaining strength to return home in a long day from tomorrow. However, I did not want to say goodbye to this story, which I have enjoyed for some time without talking about the Cosmogony of the Inuit people, a mythical narrative that aims to respond to the origin of the Universe and humanity itself from their point of view.
"Legend has it that the man and woman were already created when she asked Kaila (god of heaven) to populate the earth. Kaila told them to open a hole in the ice from which all the animals were removed until the last, the caribou, who considered her gift. This would multiply and they can hunt them, make dresses, shops, eat their meat, make their stores.
But there is more, marine animals come from the legend of a raptured girl who inhabits the sea, ormountains of the fight of two giants or tuniq, deceived by an Inuit hunter "
Legend has it that as I finished writing these lines I fell down ... and I attest to this. Tomorrow comes back from an adventure that is already part of the chronicles of this little blog!
Isaac (and companions), already from Qassiarsuk (Greenland)
EXPENSES OF THE DAY: 4.5 EUR) and GIFTS: 20 EUR